Not all that long ago, we had two options in gold jewelry: fine, with an equally fine price, or costume, which broke or turned green, perhaps along with your skin, in less time than it took new Coke to be yanked from shelves. Affordable jewelry that was decent quality somehow didn’t exist. You could always go with sterling silver, which I liked and wore all the time. But, young enough to care too much what my friends thought, I felt like the poor girl in the group who couldn’t afford “real” jewelry. Obviously, I wasn’t the only one frustrated by the gap, since we are now swimming in tarnish-proof gold jewelry. (But not literally; more on that later.)
While this new breed of baubles is priced way less than solid gold would be for comparable pieces, it still isn’t cheap. So how do you know which pieces are worth the money? Ahead, what to look for when you’re shopping for tarnish-proof pieces, and a few of my favorites.
I’d like to clear this up at the get-go. Tarnish is corrosion, often greenish. It’s impossible to prevent on certain metals, triggered not only by exposure to water, perfume, hairspray, hand lotion, shampoo, and more, but by the air, especially on humid days. All metals are doomed to tarnish except 14k or 18k gold, titanium, or stainless steel. (There are others, but in this context of tarnish-proof jewelry, those are the ones you’ll encounter.) Sterling silver is a precious metal that does tarnish, but at surface level. Oxidized sterling jewelry can be cleaned to look like new, and the process is drastically slowed in any pieces that you wear every day.
Fading is something else entirely. A sterling silver ring, say, that has been plated in 14k gold will not tarnish, but the plating will eventually rub off with wear.
The overwhelming consensus among jewelers and other jewelry experts is that if you want gold jewelry that will not tarnish or fade for the long haul, anteing up for solid gold is your only option.
Tarnish-proof gold jewelry is gold-plated in one way or another. You’ll see gold-plated brass jewelry all over the place, but steer clear. Brass is extra reactive to tarnishing triggers, and can break through plating after only one dip in a pool or ocean or at the end of a muggy summer heat wave. If a piece you’re eyeing is gold-plated over sterling silver, titanium, or stainless steel, though, it’s a safe bet.
The other commonality between brands is the water warnings. Every last one instructs us to keep their jewelry away from any and all water, sweat included, as well as any and all cosmetics and toiletries. As an aside, I managed to leave behind and lose a favorite ring, ironically trying to protect it from the perils of handwashing, in a work bathroom. This caveat is not at all practical, but universal.
Tarnish-proof gold jewelry is a market category that has been too long in coming, and now that it’s here, I’m tickled with the gleaming, budget-friendly bounty, but I’m also realistic. What we’re talking about, really, are accessories to treat ourselves to, not unlike a handbag. It’ll eventually wear out or no longer suit our style or the trends. Likewise, I don’t expect to be wearing a $90 bracelet forever like I might a $500 14k gold one, and I’m OK with that. It’s a trade off, like so much in life, but it’s one that works for me.
Ana Luisa pieces come with a two-year warranty, which right off the bat makes the prices extremely fair. According to the brand, they test the heck out of every piece to make sure it’s water-resistant. The Evan Statement Ring is, in my opinion, their most striking: Elegant, modern, and so shiny.
Ana Luisa Evan Statement Ring, $65 at analuisa.com
A cuff like this in solid 14k gold would be way out of most budgets, but this substantial stunner in 18k gold over sterling silver lends the same glam.
Veatge
I fell for the clever Harley Double Hoops the second I saw them. They give the look of two hoops if you only have one piercing. In 14k gold on sterling silver, they’re easy to put in (and hypoallergenic, for those with sensitive ears.) And fyi, I have double ear piercings, and these didn’t block my upper one. So I was able to wear a stud above my Harleys for the look of three earrings.
Ana Luisa Harley Double Hoop Earrings, $65 at analuisa.com
I’ve owned a few Ross-Simons pieces, and I’ve found the quality to be good, although some of the designs skew a little … fussy … for my taste. Big exception: This sumptuous necklace of 18k gold plated sterling silver. Made in Italy, it comes in four lengths.
Ross-Simons Paper Clip Link Necklace, starting at $104 at amazon.com
Ross Simons